HOPPERS STOPPERS

 

Fitting Instructions

 

Rear Service Brake and Handbrake Conversion sets for 78/79 series Landcruiser

 

A / Rear Brakes

 

These new rear brake assemblies are a bolt on replacement for the original type, noting that the handbrake mechanism is totally removed from the rear and now acts on the tail shaft at the gearbox transfer case.

 

For best results before fitting new rear brakes sets ensure that the vehicles front brakes are in good working order, calipers not seized, and the rear proportioning valve functioning correctly.

 

On each side

 

1/ Raise the vehicle on a Hoist or place on jackstands at approved jacking points. If in doubt consult the Original Owners Manual for details.

Never work on a vehicle that has not been raised in a safe manner.

 

2/ Ensure the handbrake is fully off. Remove rear wheels, then undo the six nuts and collets retaining the axle shaft to the end of the hub and remove the axle. Use extractor bolts in the end of the axle as required.

 

 

       

 

 

3/ Undo the caliper, disconnect the brake hose at the backing plate and remove it from the vehicle. Slip the disc rotor off the hub. If rusted on, soak the centre with WD40 or similar and hit with a suitable hammer behind the rotor face tapping and rotating until the rotor comes off.

                                               

4/ Remove the locking screws inside the hub and undo the wheel bearing centre ring. Remove the hub assembly complete with bearings from the axle tube end.

 

    

 

5/ Disconnect the handbrake cable clevis pins at the levers just outside the backing plates. Undo the four nuts holding each backing plate/handbrake assembly and remove the backing plates with handbrake parts still in place.

 

6/ Clean the axle end tube areas in preparation for installation of the new brake sets

 

Installation of new rear brakes.

 

 

                                                           

1/ Fit the new 12mm thick caliper mounting plate to the axle-housing end, noting that the caliper is now mounted to the rear. This mounting plate is the same both sides but with studs preinstalled to make left and right units. Torque the nyloc nuts to 100 NM.

 

       

 

12mm plate bolts to axle housing with ears to the rear

 

1A/ Optional splash shields introduced July 2007

 

 

 

Park brake shield on left, rear brakes shield on right

 

Fitting the rear brake shields to existing units requires the removal of the hub and rotor. The shield is located over the existing carrier plate, and then four holes marked out and drilled through for the attachment bolts. All new carrier plates are drilled for this facility.

 

 

Rough tin prototype shield for rear brakes sat in place, four holes to be drilled.

 

 

2/ Ensure the bearing carrier hubs have been drilled with the necessary   five off counter sunk holes to carry the new disc rotor, which will now be bolted to the inside hub face, the rotor has five counter bored holes to sit over the original wheel stud heads. See drawing at rear of this booklet, which shows drilling dimensions.

(Also one drilling jig pattern is provided with each brake kit to assist marking out holes if necessary. Slip the template over the wheel studs and centre punch the hole centers through the guide holes.)

    

 

After the 5 new holes are drilled, rotor bolts to the inside of hub

 

3/ As necessary fit new wheel bearing shells to the hubs and grease pack the bearing roller sets and new seal.

 

4/ Assemble the disc rotor to the hub using the ½ inch countersunk screws and nyloc nuts provided, ensuring all are tightened to 110 NM in a diagonal torquing pattern as would be practiced for the wheel nuts.

                                                           

5/ Fit the greased bearing roller sets and seals into the hub, fit the hub/disc assembly onto axle and fit the wheel bearing centre ring, tightening to factory specifications. Fit the centre ring locking screws. Reinstall the axle shaft with gasket and tighten the six end nuts and collets to factory specifications.

 

 

   

 

 

Bearings and axle install like normal.   Don’t forget the hose bracket

 

6/ Noting that there are left and right hand caliper bodies, and that when finished BLEEDERS GO TO THE TOP, take a caliper cradle and slip over the disc rotor. Fit the M12 by 1.25 bolts/washers through the 10mm carrier plate, with the 7 mm spacer washers between caliper cradle bracket and plate, and with a hose bracket at the top bolt as shown. Torque to 80 NM.

 

7/. Remove one end slide pin from the caliper body. Ensure that the anti rattle end shims are installed, NOTING THERE ARE INNER AND OUTER PADS, sit the pads in the cradle and fit the caliper body over the cradle/pads. Reinstall the slide pins and tighten hex bolts head to 60 NM. Attach the hose banjo end to the caliper with a copper washer each side of the banjo and tighten to 25 NM. Carefully bend the brake pipe to line up with it’s new position, attach the hose female end to the original brake pipe tube fitting and holding the hex on the hose with an open end spanner tighten the tube nut. Install the hose end horseshoe clip. Ensure all bolts are tight at the every position and check that disc rotor can turn freely with no contact with any brackets etc.

 

 

 

     

 

 

 

 

7 mm washers go between bracket and caliper cradle.

Bend the original brake tube to line up with the new bracket

Start the tube nut in the hose end before fitting the horseshoe clip.

 

Assembled rear brake set, shown without sheild

Is everything tight? Bleeder at the top?

 

 

8/ Refill the brake master cylinder with approved brake fluid. (check specifications on top of master cylinder cap, some Toyota‘s specify DOT3 and should NOT use DOT4 )

Bleed all air from the calipers by the established method of pushing the brake pedal down, opening the bleeder to allow air and brake fluid to escape, close bleeder, release pedal, and repeating until no air remains.

 

 Pump the brake pedal to push the pads home on the discs and ensure you have correct pedal firmness.

Check that there are no brake fluid leaks and install the wheels.

 

 

Handbrake Installation

 

 

 

 

 

The replacement handbrake is a simple disc arrangement which bolts to the rear of the gearbox transfer case with a mechanical caliper bolted to the case and a solid disc rotor attached to the output shaft flange.

 

Before commencing, ensure that the park brake handle is fully off and the cable adjuster at the top end (between the seats) is backed fully off to the original “new” setting.

 

 

 

 

View of Original Extension Housing

 

 

View of New  Handbrake Installed

 

1/ Unbolt the skid plate and store for now. On the front of tail shaft undo the four nuts holding the front universal joint flange to the gearbox output flange studs. At the rear end of the tail shaft remove the differential flange bolts and nuts and remove the shaft for now. Remove the four studs, which are pressed into the flange, using a tie rod end separator tool.

 

     

 

Remove studs from output shaft flange

 

     

 

 

2/ The handbrake caliper mounting plate bolts to four of the six holes at the rear of the transfer case, with the caliper to the driver’s side and slightly below centre. When these bolts are removed the oil will drain from the transfer case, therefore it is less messy to drain the case at the drain plug at this time.  Remove these four bolts, bolt the plate on with the new longer bolts provided, torque to 75 MN. Refill the gearbox transfer case with the correct grade of oil.

 

3/ Take the handbrake pads out for now, ensure that the slide sleeves and seals are in the caliper, and grease them liberally. Slide the caliper to the mounting plate, using the M12 nyloc nuts provided.

 

4/ On the bench, install the disc rotor onto the carrier ring fully tightening the 10 mm bolts with washers provided to 70 NM.  Note that the rotor is symmetrical and will fit either way but the carrier has spigots to suit the gearbox flange and the disc. (The carrier ring goes between disc and gearbox output shaft flange.)

 

View from passenger side

 

After tightening check that the 10mm bolt threads ends do not extend past the face of the plate, ie fouling the gearbox flange, if so lightly grind the thread ends flush.

 

Lightly start the new longer studs in the gearbox flange, installed as original from the gearbox side. Slip the disc and carrier assembly onto the flange with the disc positioned in the caliper body. Refit the tail shaft front yolk over the longer studs, with the nuts on the tail shaft side. Progressively do up the nuts, tightening them up to draw the stud splines into the flange. Torque to 75 NM. Refit the rear of the tail shaft to the differential and tighten the bolts and nuts to 75 NM.

 

 

5/ Fully back off the brake pad adjustment bolt/locknut and slip the brake pads in place, first the rear most pad then the front pad, inserting through the cut outs in the body of the caliper. Later caliper series use a pair of retaining pins to simplify pad change, if applicable install these pins and fit the R clips to hold them in place.

 

 

Later R clip design pad retainers

6/ Adjust the handbrake leverbolt so that the lever has approx 18 mm of clearance from the caliper body when the pads are hard on the disc. Tighten the locknut for now.

 

 

 

7/ Remove the handbrake cable from the rear axle and undo the cable guide plates along the centre of the vehicle so the cable can be looped back and along the driver’s side chassis rail, with the cable now running through the hole in the end of the cross member back along the drivers side chassis rail.

 

 

 

8/  Bolt the supplied flat steel adapter plate to the frame using the existing two threaded 8mm holes in the frame. Torque to 25 NM. (If necessary move any non-original hoses and slide the plate behind them.) You will reuse the original cable end shoulder bolt but first grind approx 6 mm from the end so that it will fully tighten when fitted into the plate. Bolt the cable end bracket using the shoulder bolt in the top position and the supplied 8 mm bolt and spacer in the second hole, i.e. with the cable running along the lower edge of the chassis. Torque to 25 NM.

 

 

9/ Attach the cable end to the lever using the original clevis pin, wire pin and anti rattle clip.

 

10/ Back off the lever adjustment bolt and set the disc to turn freely, but with no excess clearance at the pads. Ensure that you have 18mm clearance between the lever and the caliper body and that normal pad wear will not cause the lever to contact the body. Lock the adjuster at this position.

 

11/ Fit the supplied return spring pt no C-231 between the end of the lever and the hole in the chassis approx 120 mm forward of the lever. Take the skid plate and cut a small section off the RH rear corner to clear the caliper, and then refit to the cross member.

 

12/ You can either cut the unused cable guides and the unused RHS wire cable off or tie them with zip ties or similar to the nearby brackets for later reuse if desired.

 

Optional splash shield

The park brake shield simply bolts in place, with a clamp around the tubular cross member above the disc and two bolts onto existing holes in the bash plate. This can be fitted without disturbing an existing setup, no drilling required.

 

 

Top of shield clamps to cross member- prototype shown

 

 

Bottom bolts to existing holes on bash plate

 

 

13/ Remove the vehicle from the hoist. Test that the handbrake functions correctly by attempting to drive off with it applied. Carefully test drive to confirm that the rear brakes are functioning correctly.

 

14/ Inspect disc pads at rear wheels and handbrake during every regular service. Only adjust the handbrake at the lever locknut.

 

 

Repair and maintenance

Rear Brakes

Inspect all brake parts, particularly brake pads, calipers and hoses at each service. Ensure that calipers are not seized or creating excessive pad drag.

Replace pads when below 3mm lining thickness.

Note there are differing inner and outer pads in each caliper.

Replace Disc rotors when below 25mm thickness.

 

Check caliper slides for free movement. Clean and relube with rubber grease if necessary. Check slide bores and pins for wear. Replace slides, seals and cradles as necessary.

When fitting new pads open the bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid out via a plastic tube from bleeder to a collection bottle. You should be able to push the caliper piston back with tools such as a small G clamp. Should the piston be difficult to retract then an overhaul is required. Don’t forget to close bleeder then refill master cylinder with correct brake fluid.

 

When overhauling calipers thoroughly clean all working surfaces of the caliper body. Caliper bores and seal grooves must be spotlessly clean before reassembly. ONLY EVER use brake rubber lubricant, never hydrocarbon based oils or greases as these rapidly swell and destroy brake rubbers. Always fit new seals; never reuse old.

 

Should a caliper piston exhibit any scoring or grooving which cannot be removed by light polishing (use 600grit wet and dry paper) it should be replaced.

Check brake hoses and pipes for splitting and abrasion damage and replace as necessary.

 

Handbrake

Check pads thickness at each service. Replace when below 3mm thickness. Check slides are free and that pads do not drag when handbrake is released. Clean, and regrease slides and thrust block as required. Ensure that handbrake cable is not seized.

 

 

 

Date:……………….

 

Unit Number:………………….

 

Job number:…………………..
 
 
 
 Check list       Rear Brake Assemblies

 

1/ Mounting Plate nyloc nuts (4 off) correctly tensioned. 100nm

 

2/ Wheel bearings good condition/ repacked/ new seals.

 

3/ Shaft area under hub seal in good condition.

 

4/ Nuts /countersunk bolts holding discs to hubs correctly tensioned. 100nm

 

5/ Wheel bearing centre nut correctly preloaded.

 

6/ Locking screws in centre nut installed.

 

7/ Axle shaft retaining nuts/collets correctly tensioned to Toyota spec.

 

8/ Caliper cradle bracket bolts/washers tensioned. 80nm

 

9/ Brake pads inner/outer (are different) correct, incl end shims.

 

10/ Calipers installed with bleeders to the top.

 

11/ Caliper slides and seals/pistons lubed ONLY with rubber grease.

 

12/ Caliper slide bolts/nuts correctly tensioned 60nm.

 

13/ Hose end bracket in place.

 

14/ Banjo bolts fitted with copper washer each side.

 

15/ Banjo Bolts correctly tensioned to 25nm.

 

16/ Hose not twisted and tube nut tight at top end.

 

17/ Hose end clip in place.

 

18/ Master cylinder filled with Correct brake fluid.

 

19/ Brakes bled and good pedal feel obtained.

 

20/ All connections checked for brake fluid leaks.

 

21/ Wheel nuts all tight to Toyota spec.

 

 

Check list                                   Handbrake Installation                

 

 

1/ Disc carrier adapter plate correct way around on spigots.

 

2/ 10mm bolts and washers (disc to adapter plate) not past plate ( ie not interfering

with gearbox output flange.) and correctly tensioned to 70nm.

 

3/ Caliper slide spacer washers and sleeves with sealing boots in place and bolts correctly tensioned to75nm

 

4/ Caliper slides lubricated with rubber grease and able to slide freely.

 

5/ Four off bolts for caliper mount plate to extension housing threads, sealed and correctly tensioned to 75nm.

 

6/ Gearbox transfer case refilled , correct amount and type of oil. Drain plug tightened.

 

7/ Brake pads installed correct way around with pad material to disc.

 

8/ Tail shaft flange new longer studs/ nuts reinstalled and correctly tensioned 75nm.

 

9/ Cable end plate bolted to chassis with both bolts tensioned 25nm.

 

10/ Cable end original bracket correct way up and bolts tensioned 25nm.

 

11/ Zip ties or similar fitted to keep relocated cable in place.

 

12/ Handbrake handle in cab between seats fully off and threaded adjuster at top of cable end backed off to original “new” position.

 

13/ Handbrake lever set with approx 18 mm clearance from body so that lever will not contact caliper body casting when handbrake is applied.

 

14/  Clevis pin at end of cable to lever correctly fitted with lock clip in place.

 

15/ Cable end return spring in place.

 

16/ Checked that disc able to turn freely but with only small clearance between pads and disc. (Adjustment correct)

 

17/ Check adjuster bolt locknut tight.

 

18/ Checked that handbrake warning light on dashboard is operational and not obscured

 

19/ Once on ground test handbrake by attempting to drive off with handbrake applied. Confirm that handbrake then releases fully and does not drag.

 

20/ Complete pre-start inspection

 

     Completed by,  ………………..    Signature:………………………..

 

 

Drilling details for 79 series hub.

Drill 5 new holes 13 diameter counter sunk 8.5 deep on 136.5 pcd

 

NOTE ONE DRILLING TEMPLATE  IS SUPPLIED WITH EACH KIT

PLACE TEMPLATE OVER WHEEL STUDS, USE 3MM HOLES TO CENTRE PUNCH THE FIVE HOLES FOR DRILLING

 

 

PARTS LIST – REAR BRAKE ASSEMBLY

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

REF

QTY

PT NO

DESCRIPTION

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1

2

DRG26438

Caliper mount plate

 

 

 

 

 

2

8

M1212542

Stud M12 x 1.25 x 42 long  (S457)

 

 

 

 

 

3

8

NUTM12125

Nyloc nut M12 x 1.25

 

 

 

 

 

4

2

DBA2749

Disc rotor

 

 

 

 

 

5L

1

B851/193

Caliper full assembly LH  sleeved to 48mm with pads

 

 

 

 

 

5R

1

B851/194

Caliper full assembly LH  sleeved to 48mm with pads

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EACH CALIPER ASSY COMPRISING

 

 

 

 

 

5A

2

B171-012

          Slide Pin Bolt

 

 

 

 

 

5B

2

K823-023S

          Slide Pin

 

 

 

 

 

5C

1

K846-012

          Bleeder Screw

 

 

 

 

 

5D

1

 

          Caliper Body

 

 

 

 

 

5E,G,K

1

COHKIT

          Caliper Seal Rubber Parts Kit

 

 

 

 

 

5F

1

PISTON

          Caliper Piston 48mm s/s